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When compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. But, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble place earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary honour.